The recipe is adapted from one in Anna Thomas' New Vegetarian Epicure. The primary modification is the way I chose to cook the beans. I follow the method described by Russ Parsons in this eGullet thread - no pre-soaking of any kind, and salting right from the start. As long as the beans you are using aren't more than a couple of years old, and you cook them with the lid on, they will be tender in under two hours, without any soaking. Adding the salt at the beginning rather than at the end means that it's the beans which get salted, rather than the broth. And no, this doesn't lead to tough beans - I have cooked a dozen or more pots of various kinds of New World beans using this method over the last few months and they have all been delicious. The ancho and chipotle chillies I used were ones I bought at the food-lovers festival a couple of months ago at the Chillipepper Pete stall. The chipotles in particular were delicious - they are what give the chilli its subtle smoky, almost chocolatey flavour - and I will definitely be ordering more from their mail-order webpage. Smoky black bean chilli
Preaheat the oven to 150C. In a large saucepan with an ovenproof lid, or a lidded casserole dish, mix together the unsoaked black beans, enough water to cover with a couple of centimetres to spare, the onion, garlic, coriander and salt. Place in the oven and cook for about an hour and a half, or until they are tender. Check every half hour to make sure the water level is not getting too low. Once the beans are tender, remove from the oven and discard the onion, garlic and coriander. Heat a cast-iron or other heavy pan on the stovetop. Rinse the ancho and chipotle chillies, then put them in the very hot pan, for about 1 or 2 minutes on each side, pressing them down a little bit, until they become slightly darker. Put these scorched chillies in a small pot with just enough water to cover them, and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until they are soft. Remove the chillies from the water (reserve the water), let cool for a few minutes, then pull off and discard their stems and seeds. Place the chillies and their simmering water in a blender and puree. Toast the cumin seeds in a small pan until they are becoming aromatic. Add the dried oregano and paprika, remove from the heat, and keep stirring together for a minute or so. Then pour this mixture into a mortar and grind it into a coarse powder. Add the powder to the chilli puree. Heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saucepan, and add the onion and the bay leaf. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Stir in the chilli puree, the chopped tomatoes and their juices, the salt, vinegar and chopped green chillies. Add the beans and as much of their cooking liquid as you like. Simmer over low heat for at least 10-15 minutes, until it has the consistency you prefer. Stir in the chopped coriander leaves, then taste and add salt or additional chilli powder to taste. Serves 8-10. Comments (0)
The pasta was a variant of our regular stand-by recipe: pasta + green vegetable + white cheese + herb + garlic + olive oil ± nuts ±lemon juice. I have stopped adding the seemingly endless new versions of this recipe to the list of pasta dishes in the archives, but we still cook it a lot. Tonight we used zucchinis and fresh broad beans (double-podded to show their lovely bright green inner selves), feta, basil and pine nuts, with orrechiette. Just boil the pasta, and then 5 minutes before it is done, heat a little olive oil in a pan and saute the zucchinis and garlic until they are tender, then add the blanched and double-podded broad beans and saute for 2 minutes further. Add these vegetables to the drained pasta along with a little of the reserved cooking water, then stir through the feta, pine nuts and basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve. I took a further step towards fish-eating with the second dish, based on Antonio Carluccio's recipe for peperoni alla Siciliana, which Matt and Leonie had emailed to me a couple of months ago. I reduced the number of anchovy fillets from six to three, because when I first peeled open the tin my brain went "Cat food! Cat food! Don't eat this!", and I didn't want to waste half a dozen beautifully cooked peppers because I couldn't overcome my taboo-conditioning. In the end the anchovy taste was almost indistinguishable even to me, so I think I am getting there. This is a very good way to cook peppers, far more appealing to lazy me than roasting and peeling them. Thanks Matt and Leonie! (and Antonio C too, of course). Finally, I also tried the combination I thought of last time I cooked eggplant slices in the oven, eggplants with red wine vinegar, honey and fresh mint - it tastes most excellent, perhaps even better than the white wine vinegar and oregano version. Left-overs from this will provide tomorrow's lunch, and again I'm not sure what dinner will be. So far I am thinking of making black-bean chilli on Friday night, and urud dal dosas on the weekend (thank you Barbara for sending me the recipe!), so perhaps tomorrow should be a stir-fry with one of the packets of noodles, or some more inventive bread-making. I will also be cooking up a big pot of baked beans for breakfasts to come, using the tail ends of packets of dried cannellini beans, kidney beans and black-eyed peas, as well as the more traditional navy beans. Peperoni alla Siciliana
Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan over fairly high heat, then add the peppers and garlic cloves and cook for 10 minutes, stirring often. Add the olives and capers and continue to cook, stirring, until the peppers begin to soften. Add the anchovy fillets and stir until they dissolve. Finally, add the vinegar, and stir for a few minutes to allow the flavours to blend. Season to taste with salt. This can be served straight away and is very good, but the flavour improves further the day after cooking. Eggplant with red wine vinegar, honey and mint
Remove the alfoil from the dish and gently toss the aubergine again. Cook for a further 10-15 minutes, until the aubergine is tender and slightly golden. Remove from the oven and transfer the aubergine to a bowl. Add the red wine vinegar and honey to taste, then toss with the fresh mint. Season with additional salt or pepper if necessary. Serve warm or at room temperature. Comments (5)
Sore wrists, bulging cupboards I've had bad RSI after spending a couple of 12-hour days hunched over the computer about 10 days ago, in a stupid attempt to get a big analysis finished in a (completely arbitrarily determined) short amount of time. I am still not caught up with blog entries - the most recent ones below have been partly typed one-handed and very slowly, and partly dictated to the long-suffering and very generous Ted. It's particularly frustrating because, being banished from the computer at night, I have been cooking lots of good stuff. There is still the spinach and olive tart to describe yet, and the burgul salad with tahini dressing... Ted and I were lounging around after eating the first half of that spinach tart last night, and thinking about how much we spend on food every week. I considered how over-stuffed our pantry was, and suggested that we spend this one week (Monday morning till Sunday night) living only off what we had in the apartment. It would be so useful on several fronts - saving money, using up some of the obscure ingredients shoved to the back of the cupboard, eating more healthily as our takeaway habit could not be indulged. The idea was quickly modified to allow us to buy fresh fruit and vegetables (and milk for Ted's essential breakfast cereal), but other than that we are to pass though the aisles of the supermarket untempted (or at least not giving in). If we make it, we will go to dinner at La Fourchette on Sunday night, to partly undo the benefits of the week. Feeling very virtuous in anticipation, I made a Grant loaf last night, using about 300 g spelt flour, 180 g wholemeal flour, and 70 g rye flour, with an additional 80 g in total of flax seeds, sunflower seeds and rye flakes - a very good combination. That used up a little of the flour we have lying around (currently including plain flour, strong bread flour, Italian type 00, self-raising, wholemeal, spelt, rye, buckwheat, barley, corn, rice and potato), and was the basis of a very good lunch at university today with some cherry tomatoes, baby spinach and the end of some Swaledale cheese bought on the weekend. Tonight we ate the second half of the spinach and olive tart, and a salad of lambs' lettuce, cherry tomatoes and feta, with a dressing of olive oil and red wine vinegar (selected from our cupboard shelf of oils including extra virgin olive, garlic-infused olive, chilli-infused olive, peanut, pumpkin seed, hazlenut, flax and sesame, and vinegars including red wine, white wine, balsamic, raspberry, white rice, red rice, black rice, malt and white). Tomorrow's lunch will be more of the same as today, but I haven't decided on dinner yet. Perhaps a dal, to use up some portion of the channa, urud, toor and mung dals we have on the shelf, or some other pulse-based dish using Puy lentils, red lentils, kidney beans, navy beans, cannelini beans or turtle beans. The dal idea has more merit, since it would probably use more of the approximately 50 different spices jumbled on the second-bottom shelf of the pantry. Then some time later in the week, we could make a dish based around one of nine shapes of pasta (including some of the 2.5 kg of orrechiette), or noodles (rice stick, egg, soba, mushroom or tea flavoured), or millet grain, spelt, burgul, barley or polenta. And somewhere in there I would like to use at least a bit of the 3 jars of tahini we have somehow accumulated. I have to admit that although I am still enthusiastic about the idea, I have been running up against a few brick walls. When excavating through the cupboard I thought, "a-ha, I can use up that old jar of morello cherries in a clafouti!", only to remember that we have only one egg in the house and one of the main purposes of this week is to clear some food out without bringing more in, even perishable things like eggs. Fortunately I can have quite a good drink to help me get creative about it - I was concerned when I realised that we had cut ourselves off from the bottle shop while possessing no wine and only one bottle of beer, but cheered up no end when I surveyed the alcohol shelf and discovered that we have 21 bottles of hard liquor in the house, including one of Vana Tallinn, a very drinkable Estonian liqueur. If these lists of ingredients spark any ideas within you, please let me know! I am particularly interested in finding a recipe using large quantities of split urud dahl, since the only ones I have found so far use it in half-teaspoon amounts, as an ingredient in tempering. My two or three cups of it will last forever, at that rate. Also: what am I going to do with those cherries? Especially in fresh cherry season, it seems ridiculous to use them, but they've been in the cupboard for at least 18 months and I'm determined that they should go. Comments (7)
Last month I bought half a dozen books on programming and calculus and other scientific topics, to improve myself and make me look even more fantastic than I really am on my postdoc applications. To leaven this worthy stuff, I also ordered a copy of Fuchsia Dunlop's Sichuan Cookery, a book I have been eyeing off ever since it first came out in 2001. I am so glad I gave in to temptation: it's brilliant. It begins with a short history of the area, and a description of traditional Sichuan cuisine, including meal structure, ingredients, food preparation, and equipment. Then there are the recipes, each one introduced by a paragraph of interesting and relevent information. There are only a few pages of colour photos scattered throughout the book, but they're well-chosen and very very tempting-looking. Although like most cookbooks the majority of recipes call for some meat, there are more than enough vegetarian recipes to make it worthwhile, and she suggests vegetarian versions of quite a few recipes which traditionally incorporate meat. I cooked a quartet of dishes from this book, enough to serve 4 with rice. The lettuce dish should be served first, while the others are being finished in the kitchen. Some notes: the dried chillies used in these recipes are the plump Sichuanese kind; if you can't obtain these it is OK to substitute long Indian chillies. Don't use short Thai chillies, which are far hotter. The brand of chilli bean paste Dunlop recommends is Lee Kum Kee, which I found at my local Asian market - if you can't find this brand, make sure whichever one you buy is based on broad beans, not soy beans. The dishes are pictured below. Clockwise from the top left, they are lettuce with sesame dressing, ma po tofu, stir-fried amaranth leaves with garlic, and dry-fried green beans. I found the sesame sauce on the lettuce a bit too sesame-y, but the tofu was utterly delicious, and both the greens were good. I will be cooking lots more from this book soon!
Lettuce with sesame dressing
In the original recipe, the lettuce was used raw. I decided to lightly cook it first, by quickly sauteing the lettuce quarters in a little peanut oil in a wok, then adding a tablespoon or two of water and cooking for a further two minutes, then removing the lettuce with tongs and shaking off any remaining water. Place the lettuce on a plate. Combine the sesame paste and oil in a little bowl, then season with sugar and salt to taste. Pour this over the lettuce, and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Serve at room temperature. Ma po tofu
Cut the tofu into 2 cm cubes and steep in very hot, lightly salted water for 10 minutes. Cut the spring onions into thin slices at a steep angle. Heat the peanut oil in a wok over medium heat, then add the chilli bean paste and stir-fry for about 30 seconds. Add the black beans and ground chillies and stir-fry for another 30 seconds, until they are fragrant. Pour in the stock and add the drained tofu. Gently mix everything together by pushing the spoon gently from the edges to the centre of the wok. Take care not to break up the tofu. Season with the sugar, soy sauce and salt to taste. Simmer for about 5 minutes. Add the spring onions. Gently stir and cook for 1 minute. Add half the potato flour mixture, mixing well. The sauce should thicken enough to be glossy and cling to the bean curd. Add a little more if necessary to reach this stage. Pour into a bowl, scatter with the ground Sichuan pepper, and serve. Dry-fried green beans
Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok over a low-medium heat, the add the green beans and cook, stirring, for about 6 minutes, until they are tender and the skins are slighly puckered. Set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons of fresh oil in the wok over high heat. Add the chillies and pepper and stir-fry very briefly until they are aeromatic. Add the garlic, ginger and spring onions and stir-fry until they are also fragrant. Add the beans, toss the ingredients together, adding salt to taste. Serve at once. Stir-fried amaranth leaves with garlic
Wash the amaranth thoroughly to remove any grit, then shake dry. Remove the leaves and any tender stems, discarding the coarse stalks. Heat the oil in a wok over a high heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry briefly, then throw in the amaranth. Cook, stirring thoroughly until the leaves have wilted and the stalks are tender. Season with salt to taste, and serve at once. Comments (2)
Green and red stirfry
Heat the peanut oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the broccoli and pepper and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the greens, ginger, garlic and chilli flakes. Saute for a few minutes further, until the greens are wilting and the ginger and garlic are aromatic. Add the soy sauce and fish sauce, and continue to cook for a minute or two more, till the vegetables are as you like. Serve at once with steamed rice or noodles. Serves 2. Comments (0)
Roasted green beans with garlic
Wash the green beans, and trim them. Peel the garlic cloves, but leave whole. Combine the beans, garlic, oil and salt in a large baking dish, and toss with your hands until everything is very lightly coated with the oil. Roast at 180C for about 20 minutes, until the beans are slightly brown in spots, and parts of the skin are lightly blistered. Taste one to check that it is done. Serve at once, hot (although apparently they are also good at room temperature, for finger food). Serves 2-4 as a side dish, depending on how much else is on the table. Blueberry cobbler
Preheat the oven to 180C. Combine the sugar, cornflour, water and lemon juice in a large pan, and stir to dissolve the cornflour. Add the fruit, then bring the mixture to the boil over medium heat and simmer for one minute, stirring gently to avoid breaking the fruit. Remove from the heat, taste and add a little more sugar or lemon juice as necessary. Pour into a 1.7 litre casserole dish. Combine the flour, 2 tablespoons of sugar, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Melt the butter and combine with the buttermilk, then stir the liquid into the dry mixture in three lots, stirring to combine - do not overmix. Drop spoonfuls of this sticky dough onto the top of the fruit. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the scone crust is golden. Serve warm or hot, with cream or vanilla icecream. Serves 4-6. Comments (3)
Zucchini, basil and pine nut muffins
Preaheat the oven to 190 C. Grease the muffin tins with butter or oil. Combine the eggs, milk and olive oil in one bowl. In another, larger bowl, mix together the flours, pine nuts, sugar, salt and baking soda. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients in about three lots, mixing only to combine. Be careful not to overbeat. Add the zucchini, basil and half the cheese, and stir to combine. Fill each muffin cup about half-full. Sprinkle the tops with the rest of the cheese, then bake for 22-25 minutes, until the tops are dark golden and puffed. (I always remove one muffin and split it in half to check that it is cooked all the way through before taking the tray out.) These are great while still warm but keep well for several hours (or possibly longer - I haven't been able to have any left uneaten for that long). Comments (2)
I like this method of cooking eggplants (despite the absence of tomato). It becomes tender, while still holding its shape, and isn't at all oily. You could follow the original baking steps and then add various other dressings at the end - perhaps a mixture of red wine vinegar, honey and fresh mint would work too? Eggplant with oregano and white wine vinegar
Remove the alfoil from the dish and gently toss the aubergine again. Cook for a further 10-15 minutes, until the aubergine is tender and slightly golden. Remove from the oven and transfer the aubergine to a bowl. Add the white wine vinegar to taste, and sprinkle over the oregano leaves. Toss well, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve warm or at room temperature. Orzo with zucchini, mint and lemon
Cook the orzo in boiling, salted water till al dente, then drain. Return the orzo to the pan, drizzle over a little garlic-infused olive oil, and add the grated zucchini. Cook this over medium heat for about 2 minutes, stirring. Remove from the heat and tip into a bowl. Stir through the mint, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning, then serve. Comments (4)
Harira
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over moderate heat, then saute the onions for 8 minutes until they are translucent and soft. Add the garlic, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric and saffron and cook a further 2-3 minutes, until the spices are aromatic. Add the tomatoes, stock, lentils, chickpeas and aubergine, and simmer, partially covered, for 15-20 minutes, until the aubergine is tender. Add the vermicelli and cook, stirring, for another few minutes, until it is al dente. Add a little more liquid if necessary. Finally, add the preserved lemon, coriander, honey and harissa. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve with wedges of lemon and additional harissa for those who want more heat. Serves 6-8. Comments (1)
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