Duck carnitas on NYE

Wednesday, December 31st, 2008

I’m compelled to blog tonight’s dinner, not only because it was quite tasty, but primarily because if I do so I will have blogged at least one meal a year for 10 years and I hate breaking that kind of streak.  So let me tell you about how, after spending the afternoon in 35°C heat thinking that a salad for dinner would be perfect, I ended up eating at 11 pm after pot-roasting duck legs in half a kilo of lard for three hours.

A couple of years ago, when we were in Dublin, we had a fantastic dinner at Carolin and Dave’s place, of soft tacos with duck, black beans, feta and pomegranate seeds.  It was the kind of meal that sticks in your memory and I’ve always wanted to recreate it.  They made duck carnitas by cooking confit duck legs on the stovetop until they were falling apart, and although this involved slightly more cooking than the salad I’d initially been thinking about, I figured I could deal with it with the help of an electric fan and two or three cold margaritas.

That of course required me to be able to find duck confit in Toowong or New Farm at 4.30 pm on new year’s eve.  Not a chance.  Even Rayner’s butcher, with their cabinet full of a dozen different cuts of duck, couldn’t provide. In that insane state that I sometimes get into when food is concerned and the shops are on the verge of closing, I decided that I would just buy fresh duck legs and semi-confit the bastards myself before making the tacos.  Naturally!  After all, it was only 30°C by then.

Despite this somewhat snarly lead-up, it actually worked out pretty well.  Pot-roasting doesn’t require you to be in the same room as the oven, which is a big plus, and the long cooking time meant that we could sit on the couch drinking the aforementioned margaritas and chatting for a good chunk of time.   I modified a recipe for duck carnitas and roasted peach salsita from the book Mod Mex by Scott Linquist and Joanna Pruess, which I found on Google Books (bless them).

The carnitas were great – the flavours of the roasting liquid really permeated the meat, and it was very tender.  I changed a couple of things in the recipe: I only used a tablespoon of condensed milk rather than the cup called for, which struck me as a weird addition; I used half duck fat and half lard because I am moderately skint at the moment; I also cooked the meat for a bit over two hours and reckon it would be even better cooked for three, rather than the one and a half they say).  If I’d had the time and energy I would have cooked the mole they suggest to go with it, but since I had neither I just made the peach salsita, though using yellow-fleshed nectarines because I couldn’t find any ripe peaches.  When I make this again (and it will be when, not if, because it was great) I won’t add the orange juice and honey they call for at the end – it tasted superb before they were added, and was much too sweet (and too soupy) after they went in.

So, for future reference and tweaking, here’s the version I would start with next time:

Duck carnitas
Preheat the oven to 150°C . Take 4 duck legs, salt them liberally, and place in a bowl for 1 hour to remove excess moisture.  Pat them dry (and brush off any obvious salt clumps) and place them in a lidded ovenproof dish. Add 500 g of duck fat and/or lard, 12 black peppercorns, 6 bay leaves, 6 peeled cloves of garlic, 6 allspice berries, 2-3 arbol chillies, 1 stick of cinnamon, 1 cup fresh orange juice, 1 cup of light Mexican beer, and 1-2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk.  Heat on the stove until the fat has melted, then cover with the lid and place in the oven for about 3 hours, or until the flesh is very tender and almost falling off the bones.  Remove the duck legs, let them cool, then pull off the skin and throw it away, pull out the bones and put them in the stock bag of fowl bits in the freezer, and shred the meat.

They say to then cook the duck in a skillet with some oil for 2-3 minutes until it’s browning and crisping.  All I managed to do during this stage was make the duck stick horribly to the frypan – I really wish I had the faintest idea how to deal with meat – so I’m not sure I would do this part again.  The duck looked and tasted pretty damn good even before this step.

Peach salsita
Fry a finely chopped small onion in olive oil for about 8 minutes over low-medium heat, until translucent.  Add two finely chopped garlic cloves and half a finely chopped serrano chili (or to taste), and saute for 1 minute more.  Add 3 ripe peaches (or 6 ripe nectarines), pitted and chopped into medium dice.  Continue cooking for 5 minutes or so, until the fruit is soft but still holding its shape.  Remove from heat and let cool. Taste the salsa, and if it needs sweetening add a squeeze of orange juice and/or honey (it may well not need either if the fruit started off sweet).  Add a pinch of salt to taste. Fold in a good handfulof chopped coriander leaves.

Use small tortillas to make soft tacos with the carnitas and salsita, together with whatever other ingredients take your fancy.  I think you need something a little moist and sticky to hold it all together – we used guacamole but sour cream or mole sauce would also work.

Ta-da, made it by midnight!  Happy new year chaps!

8 Responses to “Duck carnitas on NYE”

  1. Lara Says:

    I’m one of those people who didn’t delete your feed from my RSS aggregator in the hopes that you’d start posting again… I’m glad you’re back. 🙂

    I’ll have to try this recipe – it sounds absolutely amazing!

    Happy New Year! Hope you keep up with the blogging in 2009.

  2. Meg Says:

    Thanks Lara – it’s fun to be back, so far at least! I’m glad I wasn’t universally deleted 🙂 Happy new year to you too.

  3. Zoe Says:

    Congratulations on your ten year achievement.

    “I really wish I had the faintest idea how to deal with meat”

    Really, really hot pan – even if you turn it down before you put the meat in, it needs to have been very recently very hot. And we use cast iron frypans from op shops or camping stores – season them properly and they’re much better than fancy expensive non stick pans which (a) give you cancer if you use them at high temperatures and (b) are an arse to clean.

  4. Kirsty Says:

    The condensed milk thing is interesting. I wonder if it isn’t one of those odd adoptions of an introduced tinned product like Spam. Have you been to El Torito in West End on Boundary Street? I had a drink there that was based on condensed milk. It probably works better in a drink than with duck, but still I kind of wrinkled my nose at the thought of it. That said, I was determined to try it and discovered a delicious, not too sweet drink.

  5. Meg Says:

    I am with you on the love of cast iron frypans, Zoe. Unfortunately we were using a pretty beaten-up old lightweight one (not non-stick), and that might have been part of the problem. So if I were to do it again, this time with a decently heavy frypan and high heat, is this the sort of situation where you should not stir things until they form that miracle crust and release themselves from the bottom of the pan? I never know when that is actually going to work, and when not stirring will just result in burnt meat (or tofu, more commonly).

    While eating leftover carnitas yesterday I checked out the Wikipedia page on them and they mentioned another way of doing that last step that would avoid the sticking issue altogether: “Having been dismantled, some of the rendered liquid is added back to the pork. Prior to serving, the pork is placed in fairly shallow pans to maximize surface area, then roasted at high (375 to 425 °F or 190 to 220 °C) heat for a few minutes to produce the famous alternating texture of succulent softness and caramelized crispness.” I might give this a try next time.

    Kirsty, I haven’t been to El Torito for about 8 years (mostly because I was out of the country for a good chunk of that time) but I am very keen to give it another try soon. I was wondering the same thing about the condensed milk – I’m sure I have seen a few mexican recipes that contained it where I wouldn’t have expected.

  6. Zoe Says:

    In general for meat cookery in a frypan, I heat it up to 11 then turn it down to about 7, swirl in a bit of oil, put in the meat, move it once almost immediately and then turn it over once.

    I am pretty keen to try this recipe, so will research it for you 😉

  7. Zoe Says:

    Oh, also I turn it down from about 7 to about 4 once I’ve done that initial “please don’t stick” move” on the first side.

  8. Meg Says:

    Any research findings will be gratefully received!

    Thanks for the meat-cooking tips – I will try out the super hot frypan technique.